If you've ever helped clients with acne disease, you have likely come across the term "comedogenic". Skin care products are formulated with a wide range of ingredients that can be classified as comedogenic or non-comedogenic, among other things. While "non-comedogenic" is commonly viewed as a marketing term, it is the best guideline for identifying ingredients that are clogging pores.
When clients are experiencing breakouts, it is important that you understand the science behind what is considered comedogenic and which skin care products should be avoided. Read on for tips and products for customers dealing with their clogged pores.
What does comedogenic mean?
Comedogenicity, put simply, is the tendency of an ingredient or product to clog your pores. The root of this word is "comedon". According to the US National Library of Medicine, comedones are small, flesh-colored, white, or dark bumps that give the skin a rough texture. Comedogenic ingredients cause pores to become filled or "clogged" which over time leads to blackheads, clogs, and breakouts. As HowStuffWorks.com explains, when your body produces excess sebum it mixes with dead skin cells and bacteria, potentially clogging pores. This leads to a pimple – a comedo.
HowStuffWorks.com explains, “When the comedo is closed on the surface of the skin, it's called a whitehead. If it is open on the surface of the skin and you can see that the clogged follicle is darkened by melanin deposits, it is called a blackhead. "
Individual skin types and conditions can affect the level of comedogenicity of an ingredient, so skin reactions vary from person to person. As Skin Inc says, "One person may not respond while another has overly clogged pores in a few weeks."
The difference between comedogenic and non-comedogenic
What is the difference between comedogenic ingredients and non-comedogenic ingredients? To find out, we asked Dr. Hooman Khorasani, a triple board certified, grant-trained cosmetic and skin cancer surgeon based in New York.
"Common examples of comedogenic ingredients are lanolin, petroleum jelly, and talc," says Dr. Khorasani. "These ingredients slow down peeling," which means your skin's cellular ability to "convert skin cells, making them stick together, trapping dirt and bacteria in pores, causing blockages and breakouts, and allowing acne (anaerobic) bacteria to thrive."
In comparison, non-comedogenic ingredients are specially formulated to prevent blockages from occurring and minimize your chances of developing these skin care conditions, explains Dr. Khorasani. Some acne prone individuals may find that strict avoidance of comedogenic ingredients is the only way to prevent breakouts from developing.
The term non-comedogenic you see on products is a label that remains unofficial by legal or regulatory standards, but still a good guideline for those concerned about clogged pores. According to Dermletter.com, "Products that are labeled as non-comedogenic indicate that the manufacturer considers the product for people with oily or acne-prone skin and is less likely to cause acne."
Tips for dealing with comedones
Tip 1: identify
Need a refresher on identifying comedones? As SELF explains, closed comedones form when a mixture of oil, dead skin cells, and bacteria builds up under the skin and clogs a hair follicle. They are whitish in color and covered with a layer of skin cells. You can't let them burst. "That's why they're colloquially called whiteheads, even though they don't have a head that pops." Clarissa Yang, M.D. told SELF.
Closed comedones are not to be confused with blackheads, also known as open comedones. Regardless of whether a comedone is open or closed, here are some pieces of advice or skin care products that you can offer to improve your clients' complexion.
Tip 2: Advise your customers to avoid these ingredients
It is recommended that people who are prone to acne and clogged pores avoid lanolin, petroleum jelly, and talc. You can also check the order of the ingredients on the label. The order listed can give you an approximate idea of the concentration of a comedogenic ingredient in a product. If that last ingredient can clog your pores, you can find that that ingredient is in the lowest percentage of any ingredient in a product.
While you want your client to avoid comedogenic ingredients, you can advise them to use non-comedogenic ingredients that are non-clogging and moisturizing. Some examples of non-comedogenic ingredients are grapeseed oil, hemp oil, salicylic acid, and vitamin A. Dr. Says Khorosani, "These ingredients can promote flaking of your skin, minimize the risk of buildup, and help maintain moisture levels to prevent dryness, sensitivity and irritation."
Tip 3: skin care products to reduce blemishes and pimples
Acne targeting products work well with non-comedogenic ingredients to minimize active and future breakouts. Reduce blemishes with the Clear Skin Probiotic Cleanser. This cleanser contains almond milk and yogurt to reduce the visible signs of problem skin, acne and breakouts. It's also formulated without synthetic ingredients like parabens, sodium lauryl sulfates, synthetic colors, petrochemicals, phthalates, GMOs, and triclosan.
You can also tone up your client's skin with the Lime Refresh Tonique. Lime juice has an astringent effect, while citrus fruit oils (lemon & grapefruit) tighten and clarify the complexion. The Clear Skin Willow Bark Exfoliating Peel gently exfoliates with salicylic acid to remove dead skin and contains willow bark, which soothes the skin's appearance.
How regularly do you see customers with comedones? Share your experience with us in the comments below and join the conversation on social media. Here you can also find out how to become an Eminence Organics Spa partner.