How to grow taller and stay slim with strategic mini-cutting.
A mini cut is an essential tool in your tool kit for building muscle. Unfortunately, it is often misunderstood or used recklessly. Used strategically, mini-cuts are one of the best ways to help you build the bigger, leaner body you want.
A properly executed mini-cut is like robbing the fat bank.
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How to grow taller and stay slim with strategic mini-cutting.
A mini cut is an essential tool in your tool kit for building muscle. Unfortunately, it is often misunderstood or used recklessly. Used strategically, mini-cuts are one of the best ways to build the bigger, leaner body you want.
A properly executed mini-cut is like robbing the fat bank.
Continue reading
Ikea / Sonos Symfonisk picture frame speakers
RRP $ 199.00
"A clever concept that is held back by a long power cord and uneven sound quality."
advantages
Interchangeable "art"
Wall or surface mounting
AirPlay 2
Works with the Sonos ecosystem
disadvantage
Power cord is ugly and awkward
My own artwork or photos cannot be displayed
Sound quality is average
When Ikea launched the Symfonisk Picture Frame speaker for $ 199 (its latest wireless audio collaboration with Sonos), two things were immediately clear: The age of affordable, customizable, and decorative home audio was just around the corner, and we still haven't found a way to get rid of our reliance on power cords.
It's a bold idea: try to satisfy the needs of music lovers who at the same time hate the look of wireless speakers. Succeeds? We put it to the test.
Simon Cohen / Digital Trends
The picture frame enjoys many advantages. It doesn't look like any speaker you've ever seen. Its "art" can be swapped out for several other designs for just $ 20, and you get many placement options: it can be hung vertically or horizontally on a wall, or leaned against almost any flat, vertical surface like you would with an actual Picture Frame.
Everything you need is included: In the fully recyclable box you will find the speaker, a wall mount hook, two rubber feet, a seat belt and a really long power cord.
If you want to use the picture frame at an angle on a wall, setting it up is a breeze. Insert the supplied rubber feet into the appropriate places in the frame, depending on whether you want to align it horizontally or vertically, attach the power cord and guide it through one of the many grooves and openings in the rear panel, and plug the power cord into one Wall socket.
Simon Cohen / Digital Trends
Oddly enough, Ikea limits you to two of the four possible orientations. Instead of two horizontal and two vertical options, you only get one at a time. This can be a little confusing, especially since there are oval openings on all sides – so it looks like the rubber feet could go anywhere, but not. Two sets of these openings are just a little too small to accommodate the feet. Why? I have no idea.
Ikea believes that when using the picture frame in this configuration, using the included wall mount bracket should be the least likely to fall.
There are ways to hide the cord, but none is ideal.
If you put the picture frame on the floor you probably don't have to worry, but if you place it on a mantelpiece or other raised surface I recommend using it – the speaker isn't very heavy, but it still could cause all possible damage if it falls.
Hanging the picture frame on a wall takes a little more patience. The supplied wall hook is not like a conventional picture hook. It's rectangular and shaped to match the two corresponding recesses on the back of the speaker. However, this means that you will not be able to bump the picture frame if it is not level. Therefore it is very important to mount the wall hook correctly.
Simon Cohen / Digital Trends
You can find a number of physical buttons behind the front of the speaker for play / pause and volume up (they also let you skip tracks and join a playing group of speakers). They are easy to use, although hidden, but you need to keep an eye on their placement when choosing a height to mount on the wall. In landscape mode, the controls end in the upper left corner. If you place the speaker too high, it will be very difficult to access.
Simon Cohen / Digital Trends
As expected, the power cord looks pretty bad when hung on a wall. Ikea and Sonos deserve praise for wrapping the string in braided material. This reduces the shiny plastic feel of power cords that accompany most Sonos speakers, and also leaves the cord snug against the wall fairly flat and kink-free. In short, it looks as good as a dangling white power cord can. But it's still a dangling white power cord.
There are ways to hide the cord, but none is ideal. You could encase the cable in a paintable plastic tube. You can find loads of them on Amazon. But even the lowest profile cable still leaves a visible vertical line that falls down from the speaker.
You could pay an electrician to install an electrical outlet right behind the speaker. Thanks to a massive cavity in the back wall, which has its own strap, you can hide the entire cable there. But that will likely cost you the same or more than the speaker, and you might face some drywall repairs as well.
You may want to try running the cable behind a piece of furniture, but since picture frames are rarely assembled with no space between them and other objects, there will likely still be at least one small cable visible.
Your cable concealment strategy becomes even more important when you take advantage of the photo frame's ability to daisy chain two speakers together. Each speaker has a power input and power output connector, so you can use both speakers from a single power outlet. The umbilical cord required for this, which Ikea calls "FÖRNIMMA", is available separately, but has not yet been seen on the Ikea website.
And since we're talking about cables, if you want to use the photo frame's built-in ethernet port, now you'll need to hide another cable.
Since it is fully compatible with the Sonos ecosystem and Apple AirPlay 2, it offers incredible flexibility as a sound system. You can stream music from any music service imaginable, group the Picture Frame with other Sonos or Symfonisk speakers in your home, and set it up as a stereo pair with a second Picture Frame speaker.
Considering how thin the speaker enclosure is, Sonos was able to pull out a surprising amount of bass.
If you've never used the Sonos app, it will walk you through the setup process in minutes. But it's even easier for existing Sonos users. After you have connected the photo frame to the mains and started the Sonos S2 app, the speaker will be automatically recognized and you will be asked to add it to your system. You don't even have to press any buttons. Just hold your phone next to the speaker when the app prompts you and it will do the rest. Sonos products have always been incredibly easy to set up, but now it's completely hassle-free.
Simon Cohen / Digital Trends
Out of the box, without EQ adjustment or Trueplay tuning from Sonos, the sound is okay, but nothing special. High frequencies seem a bit muffled and the bass lacks punch. But raising the bass and treble controls in the Sonos app makes a huge difference and the picture frame really comes to life.
For those who are short on space or just hate the look of most speakers, this is an affordable and easy way to get great sound.
Considering how thin the speaker enclosure is, Sonos was able to pull out a surprising amount of bass. But just a word of caution to meet your expectations: high frequency sounds like snares, cymbals, and some voices can sound a bit harsh. Sonos designed the tweeter to be more expansive, but I didn't find the soundstage particularly wide or deep.
The midrange drivers – always a challenge to get just right, even with more expensive speakers, can lack details.
I also noticed that when you turn the volume up north of 75%, the case tends to vibrate a little. This was more noticeable when the speaker was mounted on the wall.
If you're wondering how the picture frame sounds compared to the other Symfonisk products, it's a difficult comparison. It offers more punch than the bookshelf speaker, but overall the table lamp delivers a more pleasant sound signature with more warmth and detail.
Being able to put a speaker disguised as art is a great concept, but the Ikea Symfonisk Picture Frame speaker doesn't quite get it right. The power cord is a thorn in the side and doesn't sound as good as a regular wireless speaker for a similar price. For those who are limited in space or just hate the look of most speakers, it's an affordable and easy way to get good sound in your chosen space.
Better alternatives for the sound are those Sonos One, Sonos One SL, and the Symfonisk table lamp speaker lamp. But if your goal is to disguise a speaker as an object of art, I have a hard time finding a better way to do it.
As long as you don't damage it by careless installation (or trip over the power cord), the Picture Frame Speaker should last for many years. Sonos has a (mostly) good track record of updating its products with new software and I expect the photo frame to remain a useful part of the Sonos ecosystem for years to come.
Yes, but only if you consider the unique qualities of the picture frame to be essential to creating your ideal home sound system. Otherwise, I think most people will be happier with any of the other Symfonisk or Sonos products.
Editor's recommendations
The Deficit deadlift is an excellent deadlift option for those looking for some strength and stability. This exercise is also of great benefit to people with severe back problems as it provides immense relief. For those who love better strength production, this workout is an ideal choice.
The deadlift of the deficit is undoubtedly for the right reasons. However, many people do not know how to do the exercise well. Because of this, we'll walk you through this exercise quickly and easily so that you can reap its benefits in no time.
You can take a look at that Deficit Deadlift Benefits before approaching the exercise. This will help you understand what expectations you should have from this workout and how to get it right.
1. Builds incredible physical strength
Deficit deadlifts are known to increase rear and lower back strength. All you have to do is come to the starting position and use your upper body to lean into the train. You benefit from this like never before with every exercise. You also need to make sure that the range of motion is increased. Such a thing allows the lifter to improve the maximum tension and strength at the ends.
2. Improved leg and hip movement
A lifter needs to increase hip flexion to improve movement of the legs and hips. As a result, Deficit Deadlift Benefits both body parts by limiting the injury in them. You can also increase the movement of your quad this way to improve your body's performance.
3. Improved facility
When looking for potential and safe trains, an improved facility is extremely important. If you put in a little effort to improve strength, it will have several positive effects on your body. Thus it acts as a primary Deficit Deadlift Advantage to you.
4th Stimulates strength production
In the midst of all the others Deficit Deadlift BenefitsYou can also observe force production, which increases your chances of improved body fitness and health. When your strength increases in deeper areas. This is how you make the muscle fiber in your body.
If you are looking for something that has more potential and will improve your fitness game, Deadlift of the sumo deficit will be your ultimate savior. The sumo deadlift variant helps to bring positional strength and stimulates mobility in the body. It is also performed by weight lifters, bodybuilders, and athletes. If you want to practice this workout, make sure you follow the directions as required.
1. Stand on a 1-2.5 platform that is slightly off the ground.
2. Make sure the bar is on top of your laces. Don't forget to take a broad stance.
3. Now slide your hips back and pivot them forward until your torso is almost parallel to the floor.
4. Now go down and hold the bar shoulder width apart. Also use a double overhand grip.
5. Now inhale and gently pull the bar up while letting your hips pull like a seesaw.
6. When you drop your hips and pull on the bar, adjust the lats. At the same time, remember that your armpits are above the bar.
7. Now drive through the entire foot and focus on pushing the floor away.
8. When you've locked your hips, reverse the movement by pushing your hips back. You'll also need to pivot forward at this point.
9. Put the pole back on the ground and start the Deadlift of the sumo deficit to back up.
Lots of people are confused between Deficit Deadlift vs. Deadlift. Many people are unable to tell the difference between the two. However, for those who do, it is uncomfortable to know which is better. So let's discuss which of the two is best for you and why.
Both deficit deadlifts and deadlifts are potential exercises that add strength and stability to the body. However, there are a few differences that need thorough discussion.
A deficit deadlift is a little more complicated than a normal deadlift. Such a thing is because a deficit deadlift involves almost the same steps. However, the range of motion is better here. This can become daunting for people to focus on all other aspects. Thus, a deficit deadlift is more difficult than a normal deadlift.
With a deficit deadlift, the demand for better mobility and flexibility is also higher. It happens because of the improvement in a better range of motion. For people who lack stability here, the regular deadlift can be their option. For a better range of motion, the deficit deadlift offers more benefits. As a result, between the Deficit Deadlift VS DeadliftWe now have a winner!
These were some of the best details about Deficit deadlift you have to know that. If you have any further questions, please contact us through our website. We're here to help!
1. Something else Deficit Deadlift Benefits is there?
Other Deficit Deadlift Benefits Include more time under tension and increase leg strength.
2. Is that Deadlift of the sumo deficit useful?
Yes, the suMo deficit deadlift is useful in many ways. However, you need to make sure that you do the exercise well to avoid complications.
3. Is diet important in these workouts?
Yes, if you eat right, these workouts will give you instant results.
Sigma 20mm F1.4 Art criticism: More than a landscape lens
"Not everyone loves wide-angle lenses, but Sigma's 20mm art made me a fan."
Rare combination of focal length and aperture
Impressively sharp at 1: 1.4
Professional build quality
Good price
Strong vignetting
No filter support
Wide-angle lenses are not sufficiently recognized for their versatility. If you think they are only for landscapes, give me the opportunity to change your mind. Although it's a landscape and astrophotography lens, I enjoyed using the Sigma 20mm F1.4 Art for portraits and product photos, and it was the perfect lens for wedding party dance shots (don't worry, that was a couple of months ago before, before social distancing).
This is not a new product – Sigma released it in 2015 – but when I got one borrowed for my Nikon D780 review, I liked it so much that I thought I should write it down. At 5 years old, this $ 900 lens is still the current champion in fast wide-angle prime numbers for Nikon and Canon DSLRs. It is also available for mirrorless Leica L or Sony E mounts, although it is a little more difficult to recommend for such cameras.
The design of the 20mm artwork raises some usability concerns that I will discuss later. However, if you're looking for the ultimate in low-light performance, no other 20mm lens is comparable to this. Considering the price to compete with the two 20mm f / 1.8 first-party lenses, this is an excellent buy.
Every photographic lens is a compromise exercise. Price, size, image quality and functions must be balanced to achieve a goal. With the Sigma Art series, it has always been important to deliver the best quality at a price that exceeds, or at least does not exceed, that of equivalent first-party lenses – regardless of size.
Weighing over 2 pounds, the 20mm art is certainly not a lightweight, but that's the price you pay for a 1: 1.4 bright aperture and an excellent optical formula. The 15 elements in 11 groups, including two aspherical elements, two of the “F” dispersion elements from Sigma and five special low dispersion elements, ensure sharp, aberration-free images with minimal distortion.
The lens body measures 3.6 inches in diameter and 5.1 inches long, including a built-in petal-style lens hood. I thought it would go well with the Nikon D780, but I'm not sure how to use it with a mirrorless camera.
This is a DSLR first lens. The mirrorless version includes an integrated "adapter" to compensate for the difference in the distance between the flange and residue, which makes the lens longer. Perhaps this wouldn't feel too out of place with a powerful Panasonic S-series camera, but I don't know how comfortable it would be with a smaller, lighter Sony Alpha-series camera. Given that Sony recently launched the excellent FE 20mm f / 1.8G, there's a solid alternative for E-mount shooters.
The Sigma offers a minimalist exterior with a wide, knurled focus ring and a window removal scale that give it a first-class appearance. The AF / MF switch is the only other control point. There is neither a stabilizer to turn on or off – not that I would expect with a lens so wide and fast – nor an aperture click switch like the one we see on Sony's 20mm f / 1.8 and Sigma's own 35 mm saw F1. 2 Art.
The bulbous front element of the Sigma means that you cannot use a standard screw-on filter. This can be a problem for landscapes if you want a polarizer or neutral filter. Professionals and other seasoned shooters may not mind using a filter adapter with large drop-in filters, but for the rest of us, the lack of native filter support could be a reason to consider an alternative lens.
With the Hyper Sonic Motor (HSM) from Sigma, the 20 mm F1.4 graphics can be quickly focused in the viewfinder as well as in the live view. If you switch from the foreground to the background, you can feel the torque of the motor when it is switched on. Still, it makes very little noise.
Continuous autofocus performance was also very good – no doubt supported by the intelligent focusing algorithm used in the D780 – and kept pace with a cyclist heading towards me. It was also decent in a dimly lit lobby, although the camera's focus sensor was probably the bigger limiter (the D780 is good for -3 EV with the viewfinder).
However, there is a big problem with autofocus, at least when shooting through an optical viewfinder. After unpacking, my copy of the lens was focused pretty dramatically. Customers have reported similar issues in user reviews. This isn't exactly new to Sigma – I also found the problem when reviewing the 105mm F1.4 art – but it seems to be something the company is using with newer lenses like the 40mm art, which I have now recorded seems to be under control on Canon and Nikon with no problems.
Fortunately, most modern DSLRs offer the ability to adjust the focus behavior of a lens (the Nikon D780 can do this automatically using the AF fine-tuning feature that uses focus information from live view to correct viewfinder performance). You can also purchase the Sigma USB lens dock to program focus settings directly into the lens firmware.
While this problem is easy to fix, the customer must know how to recognize it. I can imagine someone buying and returning this lens because they just thought it wasn't sharp. That couldn't be further from the truth.
When I realized what was happening with the autofocus and figured out how to fix it, the Sigma 20mm Art thrilled me with incredibly detailed images and surprisingly rich bokeh (which is usually not the case with such wide lenses). There seems to be little to no sacrifice in sharpness when opened wide at 1: 1.4.
Distortions are certainly there, but they are fairly mild and can be easily corrected in the post without much harvest.
However, vignetting could be the real problem here, especially if you want to use this lens for astrophotography. Photography in the night sky usually requires a bright aperture and even focus and exposure across the frame. At 1: 1.4, the 20mm type vignettes are exactly what you would expect from a 20mm 1: 1.4 lens. It is serious.
I don't mind that with other types of photography, but with astrophotography, if you are already shooting at high ISO values, correcting the vignette in the post by lightening the corners only leads to more noise. Maybe it's not a big deal – I've seen fantastic astro shots from other photographers who used this lens – but it's something to watch out for.
The 20mm focal length may be of limited use to most photographers, but the Sigma 20mm F1.4 Art has made me a fan. I really enjoyed taking pictures with it, much more than I thought, especially for subjects that don't expect a lens as wide as portraits and products. Sometimes a new perspective is enough to refresh your creativity. Literally.
As an older model, the 20mm art has shown Sigma to improve auto focus accuracy on newer lenses. I would love to see a mirrorless redesign of this lens, as Sigma did for the 14-24mm f / 2.8 type. For Canon and Nikon DSLR shooters, however, this is still the wide-angle prime to beat.
Certainly not for Canon DSLRs. Nikon manufactures a 20mm f / 1.8 that is significantly lighter (12oz) and accepts 77mm filters. It's also quite a bit cheaper at the time of this writing, thanks to instant discounts that get it to just under $ 720. However, the sigma is sharper and brighter, and I expect the additional $ 180 to be worth it.
For Sony shooters, the FE 20 mm 1: 1.8 G is worth a look. It weighs just over 13 ounces, uses 67mm filters, and has an aperture ring with de-click controls. It is also visually excellent. At $ 900, however, you save no money and sacrifice the additional 2/3 blink collection that the f / 1.4 aperture of the Sigma offers you. For most people, however, this is a worthy trade for a lens that better fits Sony's smaller cameras.
The 20mm art that was released in late 2015 is 5 years old and remains one of the best wide angles on the market. I wouldn't be surprised if Sigma introduces a mirrorless version in the not too distant future, but anyone who buys this lens for a DSLR today should have no problem working with it for many years.
If you record a Canon or Nikon DSLR, absolutely. If you're shooting a mirrorless L-mount camera, maybe. If you're shooting a Sony E-mount camera, this is probably not the case – choose the FE 20mm f / 1.8 from Sony.
Editor's recommendations
"The lens lens truck, you're going to buy it just to show it to your friends."
Exceptional sharpness
Nice bokeh
Aperture de-click switch
Virtually no chromatic aberration
Relatively affordable
Big, heavy
Heavy vignette at f / 1.2
The Sigma 35mm F1.2 DG DN Art is exceptional. I doubt you will find a better 35mm full frame. It is so spectacular that it raises a question I have asked some similar lenses in the past.
Does it have to be that good?
The lens is a technical marvel and one of the sharpest I've ever seen, with beautiful bokeh and practically no distortion. However, thanks to its size, it's also the most uncomfortable 35mm I've ever used.
Sigma is no stranger to delivering the best quality at all costs. I groaned at the size and weight of almost all of the Art lenses I tested, and all of them were visually excellent. However, where other type lenses for DSLRs have been built, this is part of Sigma's new DN product line, which is designed for (usually) smaller mirrorless cameras.
Sigma bends over. It knows it has the best lens, and at $ 1,500, undercuts the older and slower 35mm f / 1.4 lenses from other major manufacturers. It doesn't matter that it's hard enough to anchor a small ship. People will buy it just to show off.
With a length of 5.5 inches and a diameter of 3.5 inches, the 35 mm F1.2 would be huge on any camera. Mounted on the tiny Sigma Fp that I had, it's ridiculous. This is the only 35mm image I have shot that I think should have its own tripod collar. If you want to replace an existing 35mm format with it, you may need a larger camera bag.
There are of course good reasons for this size, starting with the aperture of 1: 1.2. Full-frame 1: 1.2s are relatively rare, and this combination of a bright aperture and large sensor can result in a shallow depth of field, which is simply not possible with smaller formats. However, it does not differ significantly from the easily available 1: 1.4 lenses.
The sophisticated optical formula also contributes to this weight. There are 17 elements in 12 groups, including three aspherical elements. There is a lot of glass, an additional four elements above the 35mm F1.4 Art.
Like all Art lenses, this glass is in a stable, dust and splash-proof exterior. It feels incredibly well done. In addition to the usual automatic / manual focus switch, the lens barrel has a focus lock button and an iris release switch. The latter is aimed primarily at videographers who need to be able to smoothly increase or decrease exposure without noticeable steps. Given the number of people taking both still images and videos these days, this is a feature that I would like for every new lens.
Another proof of the hybrid nature of the lens are the 11 iris blades, a higher number than most still lenses, which are, however, a matter of course for the cinema. Thanks to these additional blades, the aperture remains almost circular when stopped, which results in a rounder, more natural blur.
This is a mirrorless lens that is available as either an L-mount or a Sony E-mount. Canon and Nikon shooters have long been Sigma's bread and butter, but they seem to stay here in the cold. Not only is it physically impossible to get this lens to work on the longer flange-to-back distance of a DSLR, but Sigma has shown no interest in producing RF or Z-mount versions for mirrorless systems from Canon or Nikon.
The maximum resolution of an imaging system is a factor of three things. Sensor, lens and technology. According to Sigma, the 35mm F1.2 can resolve "over 50 million pixels," suggesting that it targets cameras like the 47-megapixel Panasonic Lumix S1R and the Sony A7R IV at 61 MP, the two cameras with the highest resolution in L-Mount or E-Mount.
Mine was mounted on the 24MP Sigma Fp. And all I can say is wow. It's insanely sharp. Three aspherical elements mean that chromatic aberration is simply not there, although higher pixel counts may reveal some. I rationally know that I don't need a 61MP camera. Still, I want to see what this can do on an A7R IV with a stable tripod.
The wide open sharpness in the real world is excellent, although it still improves when you stop. The peak sharpness reaches 1: 2.8, but there is hardly a real difference between this and 1: 1.2. This is impressive.
Maximizing sharpness depends on the technique. This lens is difficult to hold due to its weight, so a fast shutter speed is the difference between excellence and mediocrity. And although the temptation to shoot at 1: 1.2 is hard to resist, thanks to the additional depth of field you will see more focus if you stop, even up to 1: 2.
However, sharpness is not everything. With great looks and the 11-sheet iris, you get the softest and most pleasant bokeh I've ever seen, certainly for a wide angle. You can control the shape of the bokeh using the bezel, where 1: 1.2 gives a dreamy, swirling look, while 1: 2 gives a flatter, less distracting pattern.
I have a complaint. Wide open, vignetting is bad. It's not necessarily an unattractive look, especially for portraits, but it does mean that the light transmittance at 1: 1.2 is not that good. If you want to achieve all possible performance in low light conditions, you may be disappointed. Only the center of the picture benefits from increased brightness.
Even a 1/3 step setting to 1: 1.4 helps clear up the vignette, but I wonder if we really need 1: 1.2. The difference in depth of field is simply not noticeable. If the broadcast is not much better, what is it about?
Vignette at f / 1.2
Vignette at 1: 1.8
But if it is necessary to use as much glass and start at 1: 1.2 to achieve perfection at 1: 2 and beyond, then so be it. You still won't find a better 35mm.
I can't blame a lens for being too good, but the Sigma 35mm F1.2 Art is the Tesla Cybertruck of lenses. It offers the performance you could want, but it's really about bragging rights. Nobody needs an aperture of 1: 1.2. It is a label that makes you feel special.
However, this is the result of Sigma, who went out of their way to make the best possible lens. And it worked. It won't be for everyone, and that's fine. If you want the best at all costs or just want to show off, this is definitely for you.
No. However, if you are not shooting an L-mount or e-mount camera, the Sigma 35 mm F1.4 DG Art or Tamron 35 mm 1: 1.4 Di are good alternatives. These are available in Canon EF or Nikon F mounts, which can then be adapted to the mirrorless systems from Canon and Nikon.
Designed to resolve the highest resolution sensors, you should get years of use out of them. Like any good lens, it will last longer than your camera.
Yes, if you own an L-mount or e-mount camera and want to buy the best 35mm money you can buy.
Editor's recommendations
