Nokia XR20 Review: A Beautiful Beast of a Phone

Back of the Nokia XR20.

Nokia XR20 put to the test: a beautiful beast built to last

RRP $ 550.00

“Don't let its looks fool you, the Nokia XR20 is a rugged phone through and through. It doesn't have the specifications to rival most other mainstream phones, but its value comes with impressive longevity. "

advantages

  • Attractive but robust body

  • Software updates for 3 years

  • Extended warranty (depending on location)

  • Wireless charging

disadvantage

  • Bad camera

  • Mediocre performance

  • Screen with 60 Hz refresh rate

Hard doesn't have to be ugly anymore, now that HMD Global has unveiled the Nokia XR20 smartphone, which it says can "take anything life throws on it and look great doing it". That's a pretty bold claim when rugged phones usually look like they're tucked away in a clunky, rarely very attractive case.

But does this mean that the XR20 is a rugged phone for everyone, whether or not you spend time in situations where a lesser phone would be pulverized in a matter of moments or not?

draft

The Nokia XR20 effectively straddles the world of rugged phones and clunkier mainstream models by avoiding protruding bumpers and bevel cuts on the back to symbolize ruggedness. It also has a subtle blue tint instead of a black or yellow color scheme that just screams "danger"! While it's obviously not a mainstream phone like the OnePlus Nord 2, it doesn't just look at home when it's dusty and haphazardly tossed in the booth of a heavy device.

The Nokia XR20 in the color Ultra Blue, seen from the rear.Andy Boxall / Digital Trends

Just look at some details. For example, I like the exposed aluminum metal case on the side of the phone and the simple X pattern on the camera module. But despite those pretty visuals, Nokia hasn't forgotten what the phone is really about by including a cutout for a strap, a textured polymer back for added support, and a programmable emergency button.

One-handed operation is practically impossible with small hands.

It's a chunky beast with a thickness of 10.64 mm and 248 grams. A slim plastic case covers the phone, effectively looks like an ergonomic, sturdy case on a slimmer phone and gives it the "military specification" MIL-STD-810H- Certification and an IP68 rating. This means that it has withstood falls from a height of 1.8 meters and up to an hour's water depth to a depth of 1.5 meters, as well as withstanding dust and much more. It has Gorilla Glass Victus above the screen.

It is a very wide phone and one-handed operation is practically impossible with small hands, but it is comfortable and natural to hold as it has no protrusions or protective sections on the body. There's a subtle raised lip around the screen to protect it when it's face down, but it's not so extreme that you feel it every time you swipe through the menus.

Unusually for a phone test, I deliberately dropped the XR20 and also put it in the water. It still works as you'd expect after various dunkings and drops from waist height onto a variety of surfaces from grass to gravel. However, the hard plastic shell has already had some abrasion, suggesting that while it looks pretty now, it may not last as long if it is really abused. That's the price you pay for the XR20 to look vaguely normal. I like the confidence of being able to quickly scrub it off with mild soapy water.

The Nokia XR20 is not a catwalk model, but it is not just made for the construction site. It definitely wants to cross into both worlds, but once we get into the rest of the phone it becomes clear that while the beauty is all disguised, it is only superficial. It's not a criticism, just don't mistake it for something it isn't. If I was a surfer, weekend hiker, or someone who worked in environments that were generally not electronics focused, it really fit the bill. Not really as a primary phone, but certainly as a second “lifestyle-friendly” phone.

camera

The camera module may look like it contains three or four camera lenses, but in reality it has two, with the other two spots being occupied by two flashes – a dual-tone LED and a single LED. There is an 8-megapixel selfie camera in a hole punch in the top center of the screen.

Nokia XR20 camera module.Andy Boxall / Digital Trends

The dual 48 MP main rear camera and 13 MP wide-angle camera mean the XR20 will never be a camera superstar, and in fact, it can't compete with phones that are built for camera performance. Color balance, white balance, and dynamic range are ubiquitous, and rarely do two photos have the same tone. The inconsistency continues when you switch to wide angle.

It may be called Zeiss, but the Nokia XR20's capabilities don't do it justice. It's not worth judging too harshly because Nokia really doesn't sell the phone as a top camera performer, and the photos it takes are mostly acceptable in decent lighting, but really good ones if you're interested at all Taking pictures and having some creative fun with a camera, this is not the phone for you.

power

The Nokia XR20 has many buttons. The Google Assistant button on the left side of the case is big and easy to find, which also means you'll definitely press it by mistake. There is a programmable button on the top of the phone that can be set to perform a single action like turning on the flashlight or dialing an emergency contact after a long press. It is almost flush with the body so it is unlikely that you will accidentally do this.

Fingerprint sensor of the Nokia XR20.Andy Boxall / Digital Trends

The fingerprint sensor is located inside the power key and is in the middle on the right side of the case. Annoyingly, I find that when I pick up the phone, my finger naturally presses the volume button above it, which doesn't help because the tiny sensor is flush and has no texture to help locate it. It's reliable when you find it, and a quick face unlock system is there as a backup.

It has enough power for general tasks.

A Qualcomm Snapdragon 480 processor with either 4 GB or 6 GB of RAM makes the XR20 a mid-range mobile phone. It has enough power for general tasks, and I have had no problems browsing, social networking, swiping through Google Discover, and editing photos. The main difference to more powerful phones lies in the overall speed of performing tasks such as starting the phone and starting apps or playing games. In these cases the XR20 responds a little slower. It's not annoying in most situations, but it can be if you're multitasking or just want to get things done quickly.

You will also notice the underperformance in watching videos and games where there are sometimes some stuttering when watching 1080p movies. The 6.67-inch LCD screen with an aspect ratio of 20: 9 and 1080 x 2400 has large bezels and unfortunately only a refresh rate of 60 Hz. The screen sits "under" the bezel, which makes the design look a bit antiquated. The brightness of 550 cd / m² doesn't sound like much, but it is easy to read in sunlight.

Nokia XR20 screen.Andy Boxall / Digital Trends

Looking at Carfection's Ferrari Portofino M test results in good viewing angles and a pleasant color palette. It's a good screen for a mid-range phone, but it's not very modern and many mainstream phones have the more desirable higher refresh rate. There are two speakers, but the stereo separation is minimal, with most of the volume – of which there is plenty – coming from the speaker on the bottom of the phone. The mobile phone plays Asphalt 9: Legends relatively smoothly and does not get hot. The overall weight of the Nokia XR20 means it's not exactly the ideal video or gaming partner, and the Snapdragon 480 lacks the guts to impress.

Battery, software and connectivity

Android One is neatly designed and laid out in the same way as it is on a Google Pixel phone, so it's very easy to use and I haven't encountered any reliability issues. HMD Global promises three years of phone version updates and four years of security updates, which is excellent. It has 5G, assuming you have coverage near you and NFC for Google Pay, plus a 3.5mm headphone jack, but the Wi-Fi connection struggles to maintain a weak signal compared to other phones.

Emergency button on the top of the Nokia XR20.

Andy Boxall / Digital Trends

Google Assistant button on Nokia XR20.

Andy Boxall / Digital Trends

Charging port for the Nokia XR20.

Andy Boxall / Digital Trends

The 4,630 mAh battery is very powerful and offers two days of run time even when you're playing games, watching videos, or making a few calls. It's great to see that 15 watt wireless charging is included, as is wired charging 18 W Quick Charge 4.0. However, it does not come with a charger, so actual charging speeds will depend on the charger you ultimately use.

Price and availability

The Nokia XR20 is priced at $ 550 and is available for pre-order now from B&H Photo and is likely to be available in other outlets as well. In the UK, the XR20 is available now and costs £ 399 / $ 552 or £ 449 / $ 621 for the 6GB / 128GB model. It is available in either Ultra Blue, as seen in our photos, or Granite Gray.

Our opinion

An uninspiring camera, a 60Hz refresh screen, and a Snapdragon 480 processor are a recipe for a phone that costs $ 250, but the Nokia XR20 costs $ 550. Though it looks better than most rugged phones, at its core it's still a rugged phone – and a good one at it – and you pay for the tech and certification that go into it, rather than a camera and processor-centric spec list .

The XR20 will almost certainly outlast phones that cost half the price and still look decent when you take it around town.

The story often ends here, which means that ruggedness is really the only reason to buy, but that's not exactly the case with the XR20. It's not just the body that makes it last – there is real longevity elsewhere as well. HMD Global promises three years of Android version updates and four years of security updates. It's also backed by a three-year warranty if purchased in the UK or Europe, complete with a one-year free screen replacement warranty. The US warranty details vary, and HMD Global states it comes with a two-year extended warranty.

Combine that with the rugged case, Gorilla Glass Victus, and IP68 water resistance, and you have a phone that will last through 2024 and beyond. The performance might not offer much value, but the updates and warranty do a far better job. As a second phone when things get muddy or rocky, the XR20 will almost certainly outlast phones that cost half the price and still look decent when you take it around town.

Is there a better alternative?

The ruggedness of the Nokia XR20 sets it apart from the Cat S61 and Cat S62 Pro, which both cost more but have Flir's thermal imaging technology and a far more traditional rugged design. The Cat S48c is older but is available at a much lower price, as is the current Motorola Defy.

If you're looking to spend around $ 500 on a phone without the rugged design, we recommend the Samsung Galaxy A52 5G. It's waterproof and made of plastic, so it should be moderately durable, but the screen and camera are superior to the Nokia XR20.

How long it will take?

As mentioned above, the Nokia XR20 Android software will be updated for three years and the security updates will continue for another year after that. The warranty period varies depending on where you buy the phone, but it may be covered for up to three years. That means you should be able to securely own and use the phone until at least 2024. Plus, it has 5G so you can take advantage of the fastest connection speeds too.

Should you buy it?

Yes, but only if “tough treatment” is at the top of your wish list.

Editor's recommendations



DIY Beast Mode Gear: How to Build Your Own Barbell

There have been many challenges as an American in Japan in the past six years. First of all, finding my size shoes is a challenge at best, and almost impossible at worst. Finding T-shirts that don't suffocate me while not being treated in nonsensical (or at least grammatically wrong) English is another. And let's not even try to find a decent steak.

But I digress, this article is about DIY crafting equipment. Almost a year ago, I opened my own gym in my city and am the proud owner of one of the few Olympic-style weight sets in the whole city (including the three largest commercial gyms).

However, when shopping, prices have raised their ugly heads. Weight sets that would have cost about $ 600 in the U.S. cost 100,000 yen (about $ 1,000) here in Japan – before shipping! I spent most of what I could afford and got the best set I could. Hey, heavy lifters are rare in Japan and rarer in the country. Almost everything has to be imported and the prices are high.

Fast forward to last month and I've worked on my squats. I was very happy to achieve a personal best (after the ACL operation) of 210 kilograms (about 463 pounds) when I noticed that my bar, though not failing, contained what I considered to be an excessive amount of “Flex Would designate.

Since this was my only bar for the gym, it wouldn't be a good idea to shred the damn thing in half. So I went back to my weight set documentation and checked my bar capacity.

Open the correct page and read "Recommended maximum weight: 200 kilograms". Ooooops. What do I do now? I want to get even heavier, but if I do that, I can just shear off the ends of my bar. It seemed time to buy a new bar.

Here the prices have raised their ugly heads again. When I checked the prices for a high-capacity bar, the cheapest one I could find was over 50,000 yen ($ 500). A good quality bar like an Ivanko bar would cost over 100,000 yen (USD 1,000).

To be perfectly honest, I just couldn't afford the damn things. As a former military officer who did his fair share of “MSU Ops” (Making Sh ** Up Operations), I decided to build my new bar myself.

DIY barbell, build your own barbell, do it yourself barbell, build a barbell

The most important part is of course the heart of the bar, the core bar itself. After reading a number of very informative (and often fun) articles by Dr. Ken Leistner (no stranger to the DIY iron game itself), I knew I wanted to get cold rolled steel. The helpful employees of the Osaka Stainless Steel Company in Osaka, Japan entered.

In cooperation with their representatives, we finally decided on a cold-rolled hardened steel bar with a diameter of 38 mm and a length of 250 cm (about 8 feet, which is longer than your normal bar – it is the one in the photo above). And it was really a good price too, just about a hundred dollars including delivery.

I chose the rod with a larger diameter (38 mm in contrast to the standard rod with 28 mm) for several reasons. Although I knew that the bar I got was cold rolled, it was not a guarantee that it was as strong as the steel used in a high quality commercial bar.

These extra millimeters of steel could be useful. Second, the additional diameter could also be useful as a grip aid. While it's not a real fat bar in the 2 inch or higher category, this extra almost half inch will still challenge grip on deadlifts and other trains.

DIY barbell, build your own barbell, do it yourself barbell, build a barbell

So I had my "heart", now I needed the finishing touch. A quick trip to a local hardware store made me run the pipes over the ends of my bar, a set of 50 cm long water pipes with a diameter of 1.5 inches.

With an inside diameter of 39mm and an outside diameter of 49mm, I couldn't ask for a better fit if I had ordered the damn things made to measure.

Since this rod is intended for power lifts and not for Olympic lifts, I did not need bushings or bearings or the like. I was able to attach the tubes directly to the pole without the need for twisting.

Using a series of high strength epoxy resins, I was able to easily attach the tubes to the ends of the bar (although I would have liked to weld them on, I have neither the ability nor access to a welding set). Use an old set of screw collars to work as my inner collars and TA-DA! The animal is unleashed!

DIY barbell, build your own barbell, do it yourself barbell, build a barbell

I can tell you so far this thing is a stone on my back. Taking out on squats was like having a dead straight laser line over my shoulders, even when I was fully loaded, and even trying to hop the top of some squats just to see if I could bend the bar at all could. As an added bonus, the extra bar width felt a little more comfortable on my shoulders and spread the weight a bit wider over the back muscles.

So don't despair if you find yourself in a similar situation. Although I doubt that few readers will be in a non-English speaking foreign country where there is no large heavy lifting community, you may find yourself in a situation where your finances are not quite up to the commercial price of the equipment available or shipping and other costs make DIY work useful and worthwhile.

If you choose to go DIY, here are some tips I want to share with you:

  1. Shopping spree. I checked over a dozen different sources (online and over the phone) before choosing the bar that I bought.
  2. Research. Check the dimensions, thickness, and other information about the commercially available products that you are emulating or that you want to create a template from. Even if your build is unique due to your circumstances, you will find out as much information as possible.
  3. Build over. If you're not a master metalworker or fabricator, or know someone who is, your welds and materials may not be as foolproof as the commercial ones. Let's face it, York, Ivanko and the others stayed in business and did what they do because they build good things and know how to put them together. You're not (yet?) So good. So build over if you can. If the desired commercial rack has box walls with a thickness of 2 mm, get a thickness of 3 mm if you can. If you need something that can handle £ 500, build something that can handle £ 750. It could be a little more expensive (hey, I could have built the BEAST for about three quarters of the price I would have done if I had exactly copied commercial measurements), but the added safety factor helps me sleep better at night.
  4. Try it. Put it through its paces, but do it slowly. Just because you might want to build something that can hold up to 1000 pounds, don't just hit 1000 pounds on the thing the first time. Take it in slowly and see what it can do.

In any case, I hope that this also encourages you to make your own homemade equipment in beast mode for your own needs.

DIY Beast Mode Gear: How to Build Your Own Barbell

There have been many challenges as an American in Japan in the past six years. First of all, finding my size shoes is a challenge at best, and almost impossible at worst. Finding T-shirts that don't suffocate me while not being treated in nonsensical (or at least grammatically wrong) English is another. And let's not even try to find a decent steak.

But I digress, this article is about DIY crafting equipment. Almost a year ago, I opened my own gym in my city and am the proud owner of one of the few Olympic-style weight sets in the whole city (including the three largest commercial gyms). However, when shopping, prices have raised their ugly heads. Weight sets that would have cost about $ 600 in the U.S. cost 100,000 yen (about $ 1,000) here in Japan – before shipping! I spent most of what I could afford and got the best set I could. Hey, heavy lifters are rare in Japan and rarer in the country. Almost everything has to be imported and the prices are high.

Fast forward to last month and I've worked on my squats. I was very happy to achieve a personal best (after the ACL operation) of 210 kilograms (about 463 pounds) when I noticed that my bar, though not failing, contained what I considered to be an excessive amount of “Flex Would designate. Since this was my only bar for the gym, it wouldn't be a good idea to shred the damn thing in half. So I went back to my weight set documentation and checked my bar capacity. Open the correct page and read "Recommended maximum weight: 200 kilograms". Ooooops. What do I do now? I want to get even heavier, but if I do that, I can just shear off the ends of my bar. It seemed time to buy a new bar.

Here the prices have raised their ugly heads again. When I checked the prices for a high-capacity bar, the cheapest one I could find was over 50,000 yen ($ 500). A good quality bar like an Ivanko bar would cost over 100,000 yen (USD 1,000). To be perfectly honest, I just couldn't afford the damn things. As a former military officer who did his fair share of “MSU Ops” (Making Sh ** Up Operations), I decided to build my new bar myself.

DIY barbell, build your own barbell, do it yourself barbell, build a barbell

The most important part is of course the heart of the bar, the core bar itself. After reading a number of very informative (and often fun) articles by Dr. Ken Leistner (no stranger to the DIY iron game itself), I knew I wanted to get cold rolled steel. The helpful employees of the Osaka Stainless Steel Company in Osaka, Japan entered. In cooperation with their representatives, we finally decided on a cold-rolled hardened steel bar with a diameter of 38 mm and a length of 250 cm (about 8 feet, which is longer than your normal bar – it is the one in the photo above). And it was really a good price too, just about a hundred dollars including delivery.

I chose the rod with a larger diameter (38 mm in contrast to the standard rod with 28 mm) for several reasons. Although I knew that the bar I got was cold rolled, it was not a guarantee that it was as strong as the steel used in a high quality commercial bar. These extra millimeters of steel could be useful. Second, the additional diameter could also be useful as a grip aid. While it's not a real fat bar in the 2 inch or higher category, this extra almost half inch will still challenge grip on deadlifts and other trains.

DIY barbell, build your own barbell, do it yourself barbell, build a barbell

So I had my "heart", now I needed the finishing touch. A quick trip to a local hardware store made me run the pipes over the ends of my bar, a set of 50 cm long water pipes with a diameter of 1.5 inches. With an inside diameter of 39mm and an outside diameter of 49mm, I couldn't ask for a better fit if I had ordered the damn things made to measure. Since this rod is intended for power lifts and not for Olympic lifts, I did not need bushings or bearings or the like. I was able to attach the tubes directly to the pole without the need for twisting.

Using a series of high strength epoxy resins, I was able to easily attach the tubes to the ends of the bar (although I would have liked to weld them on, I have neither the ability nor access to a welding set). Use an old set of screw collars to work as my inner collars and TA-DA! The animal is unleashed!

DIY barbell, build your own barbell, do it yourself barbell, build a barbell

I can tell you so far this thing is a stone on my back. Taking out on squats was like having a dead straight laser line over my shoulders, even when I was fully loaded, and even trying to hop the top of some squats just to see if I could bend the bar at all could. As an added bonus, the extra bar width felt a little more comfortable on my shoulders and spread the weight a bit wider over the back muscles.

So don't despair if you find yourself in a similar situation. Although I doubt that few readers will be in a non-English speaking foreign country where there is no large heavy lifting community, you may find yourself in a situation where your finances are not quite up to the commercial price of the equipment available or shipping and other costs make DIY work useful and worthwhile. If you choose the DIY jump, here are some tips I want to share with you.

  1. Shopping spree. I checked over a dozen different sources (online and over the phone) before choosing the bar that I bought.
  2. Research. Check the dimensions, thickness, and other information about the commercially available products that you are emulating or that you want to create a template from. Even if your build is unique due to your circumstances, you will find out as much information as possible.
  3. Build over. If you're not a master metalworker or fabricator, or know someone who is, your welds and materials may not be as foolproof as the commercial ones. Let's face it, York, Ivanko and the others stayed in business and did what they do because they build good things and know how to put them together. You're not (yet?) So good. So build over if you can. If the desired commercial rack has box walls with a thickness of 2 mm, get a thickness of 3 mm if you can. If you need something that can handle £ 500, build something that can handle £ 750. It could be a little more expensive (hey, I could have built the BEAST for about three quarters of the price I would have done if I had exactly copied commercial measurements), but the added safety factor helps me sleep better at night.
  4. Try it. Put it through its paces, but do it slowly. Just because you might want to build something that can hold up to 1000 pounds, don't just hit 1000 pounds on the thing the first time. Take it in slowly and see what it can do.

In any case, I hope that this also encourages you to make your own beast mode gear for your own needs. Did you build your own equipment? What did you build and what did you learn? Please share in the comments below.